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In 2011, the first-ever episode of a TV comedy called “Portlandia” debuted. In one sketch, concerned diners played by series stars Fred Armisen and Carrie Brownstein question their waitress about the origins of their chicken dinner.
The waitress shows the couple the chicken’s papers and photo — Colin the Chicken lived a free-range life on a four-acre woodland farm only 30 miles away, dining on sheep’s milk, soy and hazelnuts, in the company of his chicken friends. Unconvinced even by these…